Erich Hartl
hartl@weinpur.com
www.organicwinepure.com
This picture shows the young team of Bodega de Pinoso in the area of Alicante, who supply us with very good wine in the Bag in Box system. |
The main ideas behind the organic movement were environmental protection, the health of humans and animals and the production of better and more natural organic food and wines.
In order to achieve this, chemical-synthetic pesticides, systemic pesticides (fungicides), herbicides and artificial fertilizers were banned from the vineyards. Good, serious organic vintners reduce the sulfur content in organic wine to a minimum and do not use any other questionable aids in the wine cellar.
Of course organic wine dealers and many customers as well are interested in trying wines from other continents, but to be honest, how many wines would we be able to allocate to their origin if we were to do a blind wine-tasting. And there is no shortage of good European organic wines, quite the opposite is true. Due to their geographical and climatic diversity,
According to a report done by the UN and referred to by The Guardian, the carbon dioxide emission resulting from shipment by sea is three times higher than previously assumed. Thus the following amounts of carbon dioxide would be discharged into the air for the shipment of one bottle of wine:
Comparison between shipment by sea and road transport. Port of destination is
As is customary when discoveries of this nature are made, the controlling authorities have pointed out that natamycin in wine does not constitute a health hazard, but it is prohibited to add this antibiotic to wine.
Importers of wine and wine merchants - presumably supermarkets, since these are cheap wines - had made provisions for this and are having the wines tested in private laboratories.
It is assumed that rectified concentrated grape must was treated with this antibiotic. Concentrated grape must is added to inferior wines either before fermentation or is used to sweeten the finished wine.
Please bear in mind that good wines do not require concentrated grape must, but they do cost a bit more.
Organic Viticulture
The terms "organic" or "ecological viticulture" can briefly be explained as a method which does not use any mineral fertilizer, chemical-synthetic and systemic pesticides (herbicides, fungicides, insecticides). As a result, it may be assumed that these substances, most of which are carcinogenic or suspected of being so, will not be present in wines from organic or ecological cultivation and will also not be in the ground water.
It would however be naive to believe that this means that all the organic wines on the market are of a superior quality. This can only be made possible with the help of further quality-oriented steps in the vineyards and the wine cellars.
Biodynamic Viticulture
Those restrictions in respect to the use of chemicals which apply to organic wine apply to biodynamic viticulture as well. From an anthroposophical viewpoint, agriculture, and hence a vineyard as well, can be seen as an individual entity which has its very own biotope with as large a diversity of animals, birds, insects and plants as possible. This means that many different plants should be cultivated and that hedges and trees should be planted at the sides of the roads. The effective treatment and the fertility of the soil is facilitated by the farm animals which are kept, consisting mainly of ruminants (cattle, but sheep and horses as well) proportional to the area being farmed. The manure from the farm animals is composted, along with any other organic substances which have accumulated, and used as fertilizer. In exceptional cases, it is permissible to buy and use manure from other farmers who also use ecological methods.
Whereas the changeover from conventional viticulture (using chemicals) to organic viticulture takes two and a half to three years, the period stipulated for biodynamic viticulture is six to seven years. It is not until this time that the chemicals used in the soil have decomposed and the soil has obtained the desired vitality with sufficient microorganisms. The reason for this long changeover period can be attributed to a theory developed by Rudolf Steiner, an anthroposophist and the founder of biodynamic agriculture, which maintains that fungal diseases of plants (which cause the most damage in viticulture) are the result of an imbalance between the soil and its environment. In order to restore the balance and to obtain a healthy soil fertility, the farmers use 8 biodynamic compounds, most of which they produce themselves. They are numbered from 500 to 507 and consist of the following components:
Le FIGARO publishes regular reports on outstanding wines produced in France, as do all the other French daily papers, and these are written by Éric Beaumard, the best sommelier in France, whose full-time job is managing the restaurant in the famous Hotel GEORGE V in Paris.
In the October 27, 2009 issue, Éric Beaumard presents 13 of his favorite wines (Coup de Coeur). One of these is the Côtes de Provence rosé from the Domaine du Jas d'Esclans. Since we have been selling the wines produced by the Domaine for many years, we are not surprised, but are delighted that other experts have confirmed our opinion of these wines.
The new vintage of this wine will be available again starting April 2010.
When we describe the fragrance and the aromas of our organic wines from the Mediterranean area, from time to time we use the terms "garrigue" or "macchia." This almost impenetrable vegetation, typical of the entire Mediterranean area, is 2 to 3 meters tall, and consists of gorse, rosemary, rockrose, tree heath, greenbrier, arbutus and myrtle (in Sardinia there is a liqueur made of myrtle). Around noon and in summer, when the temperatures are high, this vegetation exudes a multitude of fragrances which are known as the very distinct, spicy-resinous, dry scent of the macchia or the garrigue. Those vines and grapes which are grown quite close to this vegegation seem to take on the scent of this fragrant "perfume," which makes it very slightly discernible in the wine later on, giving it a pleasant taste. The following wines are good examples of this:
Côteaux du Languedoc, Domaine de la Triballe
We allowed this Chianti to age for more than one year in our cellar, since we wanted to wait for it to reach maturity and for it to become more refined. During this time, we tried it occasionally, but did not recommend it for sale, since to us it seemed to be still too young. However, this wine has now exceeded our expectations and has proven to be more than worth the wait. This organic Chianti, made from 80 % Sangiovese, 10 % Canaiolo and 10 % Colorino, is now demonstrating all the typical characteristics of a very, very good wine from Tuscany, a wine which is even surpassing its predecessors.
Its fragrance is characterized by ripe berries, cherries, vanilla, wood, spices and herbs, with mineral components; dense, dry, fresh, it expresses the typicity and spirit of the Sangiovese. As far as taste is concerned, this Chianti also has a lot to offer: The warm, succulent cherry, the powerful structure and the hearty, spicy bite make it ideal when paired with a juicy roast and a tasty sauce.
Serve it now at a temperature of between 15 to 17 degrees centigrade, or store it until 2012.
If we had not known Sergio Lo Jacono for many years before he ok over the management of Torre alle Tolfe, we would have thought it would be impossible to change the characteristics of the wines which they had been producing in such a short time.
As important as the "terroir" is for good wine, it is the work in the vineyard and in the cellar which have an even stronger impact on the wine. Apart from this, we would have been suspicious of all the awards received in just as short a period of time, since there is a lot of talk about "purchased wine evaluations," which in practice are difficult to trace.
Erich Hartl
When these wines are judged positively by a neutral jury and rewarded with a gold medal, we are very happy about, because it is a confirmation form our own quality criteria and judgement.
Our wine MONICA DI SARDEGNA SUPERIORE “KREU” was awarded with a gold medal on February 19/2009 at the GALA ITALIA in New York.
This is a nice confirmation for our selection and a guarantee for our clients.