The Meaning of the Term “Terroir”

The term “terroir” is used to create an imaginary link to the soil or the earth. If a wine is described as “characterized by the soil,” this means that the wine is typical of its origins and its natural habitat. However, this typicity can only be obtained if the cultivation of the vineyards and the grapes and the work done in the cellar are influenced as little as possible by artificial means, and this is the way things are done in ecological viticulture.

It seems to be completely paradoxical that on the one hand everyone talks about unique vineyard soil which is rich minerals and is said to produce distinctive wines, whereas on the other hand the vines are constantly being given artificial mineral fertilizers. In this way, the vines are trained not to take root too deeply in order to absorb the minerals in the soil; instead of this their roots are just under the surface, where they can absorb the artificial fertilizers they are given. A further negative effect is found in the wine-growing regions which have ideal weather conditions with long dry periods in the summer. The vines whose roots are close to the surface suffer because of the dryness, and this interferes with the growth and the ripening.

In spite of an ideal climate for wine-growing, the grapes are harvested with a low sugar content and a high acidity content. To compensate for this, sugar or must concentrate are added before fermentation or surplus acids are removed by physical means. Vines with deep roots can survive long periods of hot weather and droughts without any problems and produce fully ripe grapes with a high mineral content and a well-balanced sugar and acidity content.

It is not only for reasons of health that the repeated use of chemicals and synthetic herbicides, insecticides and fungicides gives cause for concern; this also effects the quality of the wine. Insecticides and fungicides have an effect on the outside of the plants and, if systemic methods are used, on the inside of the plants and the berries as well, since they can remain on them for up to 56 days. By the way, grapes are not washed before pressing. Thus, residue from sprays can get into the wine, where proof of them can be established if the wine is analyzed. In addition, spraying fungicides also destroys the yeasts which are found naturally on the grapes. Grapes grown in this manner can only be fermented using selected yeasts and so-called fermentation aids on a phosphate basis. This however means that the “terroir character” is lost. These wines all taste the same, no matter where they are produced.

Erich Hartl
hartl@weinpur.de
www.organicwinepure.com

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