Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Clos de la Coulée de Serrant – Nicolas Joly



The famous Clos de la Coulée de Serrant produces three white wines which are among the very best in France.

Coulée de Serrant AOC
Clos de la Bergerie, Savennieres-Roche-aux-Moines AOC
Les Vieux Clos, Savennieres AOC

A lot has been written about these, and they have even been mentioned on television. However anyone who has never visited Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, who has never seen the location of the vineyards, the vines and the soil, cannot compare these with conventionally farmed wine estates. It is located high above the Loire Valley, the best site with ancient vines on a steep slope, separated by natural barriers or walls (thus the name Clos) from anything which could have an adverse effect on the fruits of the biodynamic work being done there. The two other sites, Savennieres-Roche-aux-Moines and Savennieres, are right above this on a somewhat flatter terrain and are surrounded completely by walls. Everything seems very well kept, but natural and full of life, the soil is loose and well aired, the earth smells fresh, in some places it smells of mushrooms.

The wine estate itself can really be called a chateau. The wine cellar is simple but serves its purpose. There are no centrifuges, filters or any kind of cold storage. This makes it clear what Nicolas Joly stands for: wines which are as natural as they can possibly be. Asked by the President of the Association of German Top-Quality Wine-Growing Estates how he obtained the characteristics of his wine, his answer was that this is done in the vineyard and not in the cellar.

Anyone who talks to Nicolas Joly personally about biodynamic viticulture will sense the enthusiasm, the knowledge, the commitment which he brings to his work. Quite a few wine-growers have found his philosophy of wine contagious and have switched over to biodynamic viticulture. It was gratifying to see how Joly’s young daughter, Virginie Joly, has become familiar with viticulture and with the work in the cellar as well so that she will be able to continue managing this beautiful estate when she succeeds her father one day.

But I haven’t said anything about the wines, and I don’t want to do. What I can say is that they are different from all the other white wines in the world. And you have to have drunk several bottles in order to understand them. Perhaps you'd like to find out for yourself?

Erich Hartl
hartl@weinpur.de
www.organicwinepure.com

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